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China Lake's West Basin Still Pretty Wild

October 26, 2009 - CHINA -- Undeveloped shoreline is fast becoming an endangered species in Maine. For a big lake wilderness paddling experience only 13 miles as the crow flies from Augusta, consider the West Basin of China Lake.

At 3,922 acres, China Lake is a large elongated lake with an immense circular basin attached to its southwestern side. This basin is the drinking water supply for surrounding towns, so all use is under a unique set of guidelines that protect the shoreline from development.

Signs posted along the basin shoreline prohibit all shoreline access, so you'll be spending your time in your canoe until you reach China Neck and the narrow portal that leads out into China Lake. The West Basin shoreline features a thick forest of hardwoods and evergreens bounded by small rocks.

The foliage viewing is spectacular, with an amazing variety of reds, oranges and yellows forming a linear kaleidoscope. On cool mornings, you will encounter mists rising from the warm waters, drawn skyward toward the rising sun.

As you paddle out from the boat launch site in East Vassalboro, be sure to paddle to the left 100 yards to the outlet dam. We just missed running into a large blue heron standing at water's edge peering into the depths. If you nose into an old green-shingled boathouse on the east side of the channel, you will see many swallow nests in the rafters.

China Lake is subject to wind, so pay attention to the weather forecast. There are many small coves strung along the northern shoreline of the West Basin offering shelter from wind.

If you do venture down to China Neck, three miles southeast of the launch site, there is greater exposure to wind, possibly making your return more difficult. Less experienced paddlers can stay up in the northern coves and spend a glorious few hours poking about looking for woodpeckers, migrating songbirds and the ever-present blue jays and chickadees.

As we snapped pictures of the foliage, we heard a commotion out over the water. An eagle had just dropped out of the sky into a flock of crows zigzagging across the lake. We watched in wonder as the eagle harassed the crows to get them to drop any morsels they might have been transporting.

The crows quickly regrouped and starting dishing out twice as much grief as they had been receiving. They clearly had the eagle outnumbered. Finally, the eagle tired and, with a flash of white tail feathers, flew off to the north to catch its own meal.

As you near China Neck, note the opening out into the long reach of China Lake. The tip of the neck is a popular picnic spot. We were delighted to find some chanterelle mushrooms to pick on the dark forested slope above the water. If you paddle a quarter mile south to the other side of the passageway, you will see another pebble beach. This is a great spot to rest and soak up the still powerful October sun. You will note a lot of shoreline development away from the basin.

China Lake over the years has been the focus of much water quality analysis. At one time, the town of China at the northern end of the lake was much less vigilant in controlling what was dumped into the lake. The lake was surrounded by farms whose fertilizer use often affected the water quality. Sometimes after a few days of heavy rain, the water outside the basin still gets murky.

As you paddle back to the launch site along the western shoreline, be sure to stop and enjoy the forested beauty of Bradley Island, the only island in the West Basin. There are beautiful views from a rise above the lake.

A large flock of geese flew high over the treetops, their classic V wedge discernible through the canopy of pines. Later, back out in the canoe, we saw another flock fly over. We marveled as the wedge leaders peeled back and others took their turns in the lead.

Next to the launch site is a town park under the shadows of some immense gnarled maples, a great place to admire the changing of the seasons. We were intrigued by a simple statue dedicated to local citizens who served in the Civil War. Listed were the men who died and their rank. "Musicians" were listed between corporals and privates. Music has always had its place!

Be sure to walk the few hundred yards into East Vassalboro. The Country Store sells just about anything you might need. They are known for their deep-dish style breakfast pizza and other culinary creations.

For help in getting to the East Vassalboro town boat launch on Route 32, consult Delorme's Maine Atlas and Gazetteer (map #13).

MICHAEL PERRY / CANOEING , Portland Press Herald, October 22, 2009


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