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The Views Will Move You Along Grafton Loop Trail

October 15, 2008 - NEWRY -- There is no quick and easy way to reach the top of Sunday River Whitecap, a magnificent alpine peak in the backcountry of the Mahoosuc Mountains of western Maine.

To get there you'll have to hike seven rugged miles on the western loop of the Grafton Notch Trail. From Route 26 in Newry you'll climb over Bald and Stowe Mountains and gain more than 2,500 sweaty feet of elevation. Do so, however, and you'll have earned your keep, so to speak, and the right to enjoy the grand views from the airy perch on the 3,335-foot summit.

This new 18-mile section of trail opened a year ago and completes the 42-mile loop, providing backpackers with the opportunity for a three- to five-day trek through formerly trailless terrain. The trip is now one of Maine's premier hikes, but even so, don't expect much company. The remote nature of the loop provides natural crowd control.

"Sunday River Whitecap is the gem of the entire Grafton Loop Trail," said Andrew Norkin, director of trails and recreation management for the Appalachian Mountain Club. "The views are unusually good for this relatively small alpine peak."

The AMC manages the western half of the trail, while the Maine Appalachian Trail Club bears responsibility for the eastern portion. The two organizations partnered to plan and build the trail from 2000 to 2007.

Sunday River Whitecap presented a unique opportunity to the trail builders at AMC, according to Norkin.

"Most trail protection is a reaction to users and use," Norkin said. "But here, since no trail existed previously, we could put the trail where we wanted it to go."

To protect the fragile natural environment, with its rare plant species and alpine vegetation, the AMC constructed scree walls, rock cairns and elevated bog bridges to mark the way and keep hikers and their boots on the trail.

"We wanted to educate users by showing them when to stay on the trail," said Norkin.

Modern trail construction techniques are evident up and down the new trail. With guidance from a trail design consultant, the path was carefully laid out, using the terrain to its best advantage. Whereas the typical old New England trail often climbs straight up the fall line, trail builders here used "climbing turns," a long, sweeping switchback of sorts, and contouring for more gradual ascents and descents as well as erosion control.

Hike the western side of the Grafton Loop Trail, as a friend and I did over three days earlier this summer, and you too likely will be very impressed. Kudos to our trail building friends at AMC and MATC!

Trailhead parking for the Grafton Loop Trail is located on Route 26 five miles north of Route 2 and farther north at Grafton Notch in Grafton Notch State Park.

On our hike, wanting to get to the views on Sunday River Whitecap before an impending storm did, we tackled the route clockwise from the south. The trail crosses Bear River and wends easily through the valley before angling up the slopes of Bald and Stowe Mountains.

Sargent Brook Campsite, six miles in, is one of two camping areas en route. Slide Brook Campsite lies 10.5 miles from the trailhead. A third campsite is planned for the base of Old Speck, to open for use next summer. The sites are primitive, as you might expect, with only earthen tent pads, a composting privy and water source.

Beyond Sunday River Whitecap the trail descends into Miles Notch and contours around Slide Mountain. Old Speck, Maine's fourth highest mountain at 4,170 feet, is reached at the 13-mile mark. The views from the lookout tower on a clear day are outstanding in all directions.

Three-tenths of a mile beyond the top of Old Speck, the Grafton Loop Trail merges with the Appalachian Trail. Speck Pond, Maine's highest body of water, and the Speck Pond Campsite are just over a mile downhill to the left. Turn right for the long, meandering descent of Old Speck.

Three miles ahead, a side trail leads a short distance to The Eyebrow, the iconic cliff face that forms the western wall of Grafton Notch. It's worth the extra effort, for sure. You can continue the descent on the Eyebrow Trail or double back and complete the hike on the AT.

If you've spotted a car at Grafton Notch, you're all set. If not, well, stick out your thumb for an easy hitch to the lower trailhead.

To plan your Grafton Loop Trail hike (info, mileage chart and map) visit click here.

Carey Kish of Bowdoin is currently on a 375-mile hike across Ireland. Send comments and hike suggestions to MaineOutdoors@aol.com

CAREY KISH, Portland Press Herald, October 9, 2008


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Regions: Sebago, Rangeley


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