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Paddling Lake Hebron in Monson

August 13, 2008 - MONSON -- An outing on Lake Hebron is much more than great scenery and wildlife viewing. It is also about immersing yourself in the history of Monson, walking about the town, and getting a feel for a place that still holds the essence of “the real Maine.”

Monson means different things to different people. For hikers who have lifelong dreams of hiking the 2,100-mile long Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine, it is the beginning of the 100-Mile Wilderness and the last challenge of the five-month trip. For south bounders, it is completion of the first major hurdle of the journey.

For both, it is pizza and ice cream.

Monson is 14 miles south of Greenville, and 20 miles northwest of Dover-Foxcroft. For help in getting there, consult the Maine Atlas and Gazetteer (Map No. 31).

Summer cottagers have been coming to Lake Hebron since the 1890s. Things have not changed all that much. The wind still sings in the tall pines. An afternoon thunderstorm still clears the air of haze and humidity. Bugs still ping the screens at night.

There are two boat launch sites on the lake. The one we used is in the back of the post office on Main Street (Routes 15 and 6). This is a peaceful spot with a small pier edging out into the lake – perfect for soaking up the sun and picnicking. Across the road rises the striking red former Swedish Lutheran Church, built in 1890.

The other launch site is at Whiting’s Cove Town Beach on the Blanchard Road, a mile south of town. This is a popular spot with local families, and the shouts of sheer joy will have you joining in for a refreshing swim before you head out exploring.

This is a good spot to put in if there is a stiff south or southwesterly breeze, because you will remain protected all the way down the southern shoreline to the wilds of the western portion of the lake. If you paddle the complete shoreline of the lake, you will paddle about eight miles over a three-hour period.

While much of the lake does have cottages along the shoreline, the western third of the lake is peaceful and undeveloped. Since many of the cottages have passed from generation to generation, many properties are home to huge white pine and majestic white birch. We spied a Hatteras hammock strung between two lakeside cedars.

Although the deepest portion of the lake is 100 feet deep, the waters along the shoreline are shallow, with offshore ledges and bleached stumps poking up above the water on occasion. The large sloping mass to the west is part of the Appalachian Trail, and carries the notorious name of Breakneck Ridge.

We enjoyed the noisy antics of a pair of kingfisher around Indian Point. They flew just ahead of us from branch to branch along the shoreline. As we paddled around a corner into a marshy cove, a blue heron gracefully lifted off. You will encounter many species of ducks in the pickerelweed and water lily-dotted waters of the western marsh.

On the northern s horeline of the lake, a mile west of downtown, note the hillside of black slate slabs rising above the Bray Road. A jetty-like arm of slate debris and rubble extends out into the lake from the road. Over the years, white birch trees and alders have spring up along the arm.

Monson is a difficult place to say goodbye to. It has a peaceful, nostalgic, time-has-stopped feeling. Try to spend as much time poking about town as you do exploring on the water. There is something for every interest. The chances are good you will run into Appalachian Trail thru-hikers at the Post Office or at the Monson General Store.

You will know the store is a classic the minute you step inside. The creaky wooden floors set the tone. They sell a little bit of everything, but nothing in great quantity. Galvanized buckets on a bottom shelf held many pounds of rusted nails. A counter top sports an open trail register in which hikers have bared their souls, shared their philosophies of life, and offered trail wisdoms gained over the many miles of blisters, bugs and breathtaking vistas.

A walk down Pleasant Street brings you to Shaw’s, the legendary hotelier, whose heaping bowls of tasty food and hot showers are rapturously discussed and marveled at up and down the trail. Shaw’s is indeed a trail institution.

The Monson Museum (open Wednesdays and Fridays) is located in the former Town Hall, across from the post office. There is a delightful park behind this historic gray building. A footbridge arches over the outlet stream from Lake Hebron, and rose bushes and hosta plants border a shaded picnic table.

Tarry a while on Main Street and admire the view down Lake Hebron between the sleepy wooden buildings. This view is especially stunning in September and October as the hardwood trees along the lake turn summer green into autumn yellow’s and red’s.

A paddle on Lake Hebron is a paddle back in time, filled with the nostalgia of summer cottage living, mixed with the hopes and dreams of someday hiking the Appalachian Trail, all punctuated with a scenic shoreline and a variety of wildlife sightings.

Michael Perry is former director of the L.L.Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools, and founder of Dreams Unlimited, specializing in inspiring outdoor slide programs for civic groups, businesses, and schools. Contact: dreams @ime.net

By Michael Perry August 7, 2008, Blethen Maine Newspapers


Lakes: Lake Hebron
Regions: Embden


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