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Take a Day to Paddle into Rangeley Lake's Tranquil South Bog Cove

June 25, 2008 - RANGELEY -- A paddler could easily spend a week's vacation in the Rangeley Lakes region, exploring a variety of lakes and ponds, moose watching at dawn and dusk, and exploring hiking trails leading into scenic bogs and up to windswept summits.

If you have only one day, rise early and drive up Route 4 out of Farmington to Rangeley and explore a surprisingly wild and less visited part of Rangeley Lake, South Bog Cove. You will be following in the footsteps of history on the drive up, and on the lake.

On the left just before the Phillips-Avon line note the small airfield. Lindbergh Airport was named after aviator Charles Lindbergh, who landed here with his wife on Sept. 27, 1947.

Be sure to drive through the small town of Phillips, just off Route 4. There are many elegant buildings and homes that harken back to when Rangeley was a popular destination for summer vacationers, during its "Golden Age" of tourism in the 1920s and 1930s. Trains and buses transported vacationers to Farmington and Phillips on their way to summer relaxation and adventure in the grand lodges and inns that once dotted the shores of the area's lakes.

An exploration of South Bog Cove starts at Rangeley Lake State Park. Turn west onto South Shore Drive from Route 4 about four miles south of the town of Rangeley. Follow this road for 4.8 miles until you see the park entrance road on the right. At the entrance station you will pay a $3-per-adult fee to enter the park. The boat launch site is clearly marked. Consult the Delorme Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, map No. 28, for help in getting to Rangeley Lake State Park.

The summer season sees a lot of boating traffic on the lake. That should not deter any paddler in search of outstanding alpine scenery and wilderness solitude. Leave the powerboats for the vast depths of the middle of the lake and follow the rocky shoreline west for three miles from the state park boat launch into the tranquil backwaters of South Bog Cove.

The launch site offers outstanding views east toward the elongated barrier of Saddleback Mountain. It is apparent from here how it got its name. Note the dimple of mountain north of the Horn, known as Potato Nubble. We were there on a hazy day but still could see the round ridgelines of the Crocker's and the peaks in and around the Reddington Range.

Paddle to the left up the shoreline. A few hundred yards from the launch site you will pass the swimming "beach" at Rangeley Lake State Park. It is quite unique. Sunbathers were casually scattered across a green slope, its grass cut as fine and short as that of a golf course fairway. Three wide wooden steps led down into the crystal clear water. It all looked quite comfortable and inviting. Despite the warm, sunny day there were very few people at the beach.

You will soon paddle by the park campground and start to head west. A mile out into the lake sits the South Bog Islands archipelago, composed of one large forested island and a number of rocky islets with small cottages on them. If the winds remain calm and waters placid, this makes a fun exploration. The islands have a San Juan Islands feel to them for those of you who have sea kayaked in this renowned area north of Seattle, Wash. The islet cottages take up all the available real estate, and a stay must be a lyrical one, with the constant sound of lapping water mixing with the call of loons.

The bold conical profile of Bald Mountain dominates the western skyline. On the other side of the mountain lies Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Looking out over the waters of this beautiful lake, Carrie Stevens created more than 100 fly patterns, including the immortal Gray Ghost.

In an earlier era, a one-woman frenzy of publicity helped put the Rangeley Lakes area on the wish lists of sportsmen around the globe. With the colorful nickname "Flyrod," Cornelia Crosby produced dynamic articles and dazzling fly-casting exhibitions at eastern sporting shows that lured sportsmen and nature lovers to the area. You're paddling in the fish-rich waters that brought them here.

Before following the shoreline south into South Bog Cove, stop and gaze north. The tall mountain 13 miles to the north is West Kennebago, which provides one of the truly outstanding day hikes in the area. There is also a cusp of cobble beach beyond the campground, just big enough for one canoe to land. The swimming is outstanding, as are the views northwest toward Oquossoc.

As we paddled around the long round point and headed down into South Bog Cove, we stopped to enjoy the antics of a common merganser and her seven fluffy youngsters. As we neared, mom called them all together. In a splash and flurry of wings and feet, they marched in formation away from us.

At the southern reach of the cove, a number of fingers lead into South Bog. Once you enter into this kingdom of solitude you will wonder if and where civilization ever existed. You will feel far removed from the bustle of the lake. We spent an hour poking around. At one point you will see crude yellow paint blazes on trees, the boundary marker between Rangeley and Rangeley Plantation. The sound of bullfrogs rose and fell as we neared.

All too soon, it was time to head back to the park. A blue heron gracefully lifted out of the grasses as we headed back out into the open water. The wind and waters had remained unusually calm for the three hours we had been on the lake, but be aware that the lake is large and prone to sudden thunderstorms and squally winds. Plan and paddle accordingly.

Back near the boat launch area, we decided to explore farther south along the forested shoreline for 15 more minutes before heading back in. As we turned around at the entrance into South Cove, a mature bald eagle swooped down out of a nearby pine and glided out over the lake. The surprises continued.

Dinner at the historic Rangeley Inn back in town, or ice cream at Gifford's in Farmington, or the sunset view from the Height of Land up on Route 17? There are countless options to continue your day of adventure into the evening hours. Maybe a week's vacation up here makes a lot of sense after all! For up-to-date information and specific fall closing date, call the park at 864-3858.

By MICHAEL PERRY June 22, 2008

Michael Perry is the former director of the L.L.Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools, and founder of Dreams Unlimited, specializing in inspiring outdoor slide programs for businesses, schools, and civic groups. Contact him at: dreams @ime.net

Lakes: Rangeley
Regions: Rangeley


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